Man working on chainsaw

How-To Articles

In this section you will find seasonal tips, maintenance support, general advice and more.

How to use a brushcutter

There are a number of safety aspects to consider when using a brushcutter. Here is an overview of how to dress in order not to get injured, and how to operate the machine efficiently.


Always wear a visor, safety glasses and hearing protection when clearing, or a safety helmet with visor and hearing protection if the stand reaches head height. Shoes, protective footwear or strong boots should always be worn.

In dense stands you should wear heavy-duty clothing. When clearing brush and grass, heavy-duty trousers and a shirt or jacket will generally be sufficient.

Read more about safety equipment in our article “Brushcutters and personal safety.”

The harness and anti-vibration system

The design and individual adjustment options of the harness play a crucial role. The harness distributes the machine’s weight so that the body is not put under unnecessary strain. Therefore the harness should not hang loosely, but sit tight against the body. The machine’s suspension point should also be adjusted so that you obtain the correct working angle to the ground.

There are also several other fixing points on the machine, partly so the cutting equipment works parallel to the ground and partly so the machine is correctly balanced.

Most brushcutters are equipped with vibration damping between the engine and shaft. However, as soon as the cutting equipment starts to bite, other vibrations and types of impact occur. To overcome this, Jonsered has developed a unique anti-vibration system. The whole of the upper section with the handle and the section that rests against the body is isolated from the engine and shaft. Jonsered also has a full anti-vibration system on machines fitted with loop handles.

Starting point

The ideal starting point when using a brushcutter is this: A straight back, the hands extended comfortably in front of you and the cutting equipment directly in front of the body.

As Jonsered brushcutters have an angle between the double handle and the shaft, offset 7 degrees to the left, a left-hand sweep is not obstructed by the body and handle colliding. It is this, which allows you to effectively sweep in both directions, without excessive twisting of the back.

Each type of vegetation requires its own clearing technique. On this website you will find easy-to-follow how-to articles on clearing thick grass, plain grass, and coarse brush and bushes.

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Clearing technique for plain grass

Our expert advice on how to clear plain grass, including movements and operating tips that make your work easier and more efficient.

Effective clearing of large areas of grass and long working hours call for powerful machines fitted with a trimmer head. The trimmer line’s cutting area is very large, but it is also very demanding on power, as the line causes a braking-while-cutting effect.

The engine as well as the cutting equipment work under extreme strain. Thanks to the torque increase, due to the gear ratio in the angle gear, even the smaller Jonsered brushcutters have a higher capacity than normal for their class. In parks, where grass clearing is often a question of removing weeds and trimming areas where lawn mowers cannot reach, this gives an extra power margin.

Working technique

You can work with either single or double-sided sweeping movements. Towards the end of the movement release the throttle and accelerate before starting the next movement. The reason why you should not operate the tool constantly at maximum speed is because clearing using a trimmer head is extremely demanding work for the machine. The engine must provide maximum power at the same time as the trimmer line causes a braking effect.

Clearing on slopes

The general rule when planning clearing work on slopes is that you always move along the slope, not up or down. Start at the bottom and let the cut material fall downwards, thereby avoiding using the machine in grass that has already been cut.

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Brand: A Working Life - Fall

Clearing technique for coarse brush and bushes

Our expert advice on how to clear coarse brush and bushes, including movements and operating tips that make your work easier and more efficient.

The larger Jonsered machines are used with the heavier three-tooth grass and brush blade, which slices effortlessly through stems. If the stems are too thick, then fit a clearing blade, which will cut through the stem. “A rule of thumb”: When the stem is as thick as a thumb, use the clearing blade.

The smaller lightweight Jonsered machines are equipped with the four-tooth grass and brush blade, which works smoother and gives less kick. Alternatively fit a special clearing blade, Opti 26T, which has been specially designed for these machines. If you have a loop handle this should be changed to a “J” handle.

Sweeping movements

In dense vegetation it is preferable to work with a single-sided sweeping movement from right to left – or the reverse – and guide the cut material to the side. The density of the vegetation determines the width of the clearing arc.

In sparse vegetation you work with sweeping movements in both directions. Let the blade do the work using gentle sweeping movements releasing the throttle at the end of the movement. Before starting the next sweep, accelerate to bring the blade up to speed. Operating the blade at high speed gives it the required momentum, while releasing the throttle gives the engine a breathing space

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Jonsered man with brushcutter, trimmer

Brushcutters and personal safety

Wearing the right clothes and safety equipment when working with a brushcutter is important. Here is an easy-to-follow guide to prevent injury.

Always wear a visor, safety glasses and hearing protection when clearing or a safety helmet with visor and hearing protection if the stand reaches head height.

A brushcutter’s cutting equipment may seem to be a fair distance from the operator; nevertheless, there is still a risk of cut material, loose stones, branches, etc. flying off in different directions. And despite the fact that the engines have silencers, your hearing should be protected from prolonged noise.

In dense stands you should wear heavy-duty clothing made of a durable material that does not catch on branches, etc. In addition, such clothing must provide good ventilation and freedom of movement. When clearing brush and grass, heavy-duty trousers and a shirt or jacket allowing good movement will generally be sufficient. It’s a good idea to wear a pair of gloves too.

It goes without saying that heavy-duty shoes, protective footwear or strong boots with deep tread soles that give a firm foothold on slippery, newly cut grass as well as stony, or uneven ground should always be worn.

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CC 2235, CC2235

Clearing technique for thick grass

Our expert advice on how to clear thick grass, including movements and working positions that make your work easier and more efficient.

Clearing large areas requires the power and capacity found on the larger machines. In mixed vegetation with woody stems and shoots you cannot use trimmer line but must use a grass and brush blade – three-tooth on the larger machines and four-tooth on the smaller. Thanks to the torque increase, due to the gear ratio in the angle gear, cutting capacity is more than enough even on the smaller Jonsered machines.

Sweeping movements

If the vegetation is low you can clear using double sided sweeping movements, however often, particularly in tall grass, it is better to work with single sided sweeping movements, so that you can guide the cut material to one side or the other at the same time as you clear a path. Release the throttle at the end of the movement and accelerate to bring the blade up to speed before starting the next sweep.

Place the fuel can in a suitable position to avoid unnecessary walking to refuel.

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Limbing, US, 2min 43sec

How to limb with a chainsaw

Once the tree is on the ground you can start limbing. This can be a dangerous job if not done properly. Here is our expert step-by-step guide to doing this.

To avoid kickback, you should constantly watch the position of the bar tip to avoid contacting a hidden branch with the kickback sector of the tip.

As always you should keep a grip round the front handle with your left thumb and apply full throttle before you start cutting. Once again, plan your work and always try to think one step ahead.

1. Correct working height and working position

When you limb a tree you should stand on the left side of the trunk. The starting position is with your feet apart, back straight and the saw resting on the trunk. If the tree is resting on the stump and branches, or on a log or rock, it will be at a good working height so you can work safely and comfortably.

Work from the root end towards the tip. Always keep the trunk as a barrier between you and the saw as you work your way along the tree.

2. How to limb broad-leaf trees

A. Branches on the side of the trunk can be cut downwards with the chain pulling. Let the body of the saw rest against the trunk and rotate the bar in a lever motion towards the branch.

B. You can cut branches that stand up vertically from the top of the trunk with the saw lying on its side, either with the chain pulling or pushing. Use your thumb to control the throttle.

C. If thicker branches are pressing against the ground you may need to cut them from below with the chain pushing, to prevent the bar and chain from being pinched. First make a shallow cut in the top to prevent the branch from splitting. Watch out in case it springs up when you cut through.

D. With really thick or uneven branches it is easier to cut them bit-by-bit into manageable lengths. First make a cut in the underside before you cut off a length from above. There is a considerable risk of kickback during limbing.

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Maintenance, US, 2min 59sec

Chainsaw care and maintenance

Jonsered chainsaws are built to survive tough challenges, but they do need some looking after to work safely and efficiently. Here are a few easy tips.

You can do most maintenance yourself using the instruction manual. Your Jonsered dealer has all the spare parts and accessories you need and will also be happy to assist you when it’s time for service.

After every shift

Check the chain tension and lubrication. Retention the chain and top up the chain oil if necessary. Get into the habit of refueling the saw before you put it away for the evening. That way it will always be ready.

At regular intervals

When the air filter starts clogging up with sawdust you should remove the filter and wash it in a little tepid water and mild detergent. How often you need to do this depends on how much you use the saw.

Jonsered’s unique turbo air cleaning system removes most of the sawdust from the intake air before it reaches the air filter. This means you do not need to clean the air filter on a Jonsered turbo saw as often as with most other chainsaws.

Now and then you should also blow the sawdust and dirt out from the cooling fins and the brake band.

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Maintenance, US, 2min 59sec

Learning to sharpen a chainsaw chain

The saw chain must be kept sharp in order to cut efficiently, safely and with accuracy. It is recommended that you learn how to sharpen the chain yourself. This is how it’s done.

Professional loggers sharpen their chains several times every working day, because they know that a sharp chain is just as important as a powerful engine.

How often should you sharpen the chain? This depends on how much you use the saw, but when the chain starts to seem blunt it is usually time to sharpen it. The appearance of the chips gives a good indication of the chain’s condition. A sharp chain produces fine, regular wood chips, while a blunt chain just produces sawdust.


You will need a round file, a flat file, and a combination file gauge that fits your chain. Your Jonsered dealer has everything you need. A vice makes the task easier. Secure the bar so you have both hands free.

A little saw chain theory

Each link in the saw chain works rather like a miniature plane. The effectiveness of the chain is determined by the difference in height between the cutter (1) and the raker (2). This height difference controls how deep the cutter bites into the wood. The raker should be about 0.50.8 mm lower than the cutter.


You sharpen the cutters first. Lay the file gauge on the chain. The arrows on the gauge should point in the chain’s direction of rotation. File the tooth using light, regular pushing strokes, at an angle of about 30 degrees to the bar.

File each tooth the same number of strokes. File every second tooth from the right, and those in between from the left. A tip: If you have secured the bar in a vice it is easier to file every second tooth from one side, then turn the saw around and file the rest from the other side.


Lay the raker gauge on the chain and use the flat file to file each raker flush with the gauge. The gauge has two positions: H for hard species of wood or frozen timber, and S for soft species of wood.

Warning: If you file the rakers without a gauge you might file them down too far. This will result in the chain biting too deeply, which increases the risk of kickback, excessive vibration and poor accuracy.

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Chainsaw safety features

There are a number of safety aspects to consider when operating a chainsaw. Here is an overview of the safety features on Jonsered chainsaws.
1. Chain brake

The greatest hazard when working with a chainsaw is if the saw kicks back. Kickback can happen if something contacts the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar, or if you try to cut with that same quadrant (the “kickback sector”). The bar tip will then try to climb upwards, and the saw will be thrown backwards by the force of the rotating chain.

You should always make sure the bar tip does not contact anything, and never try to cut with the kickback sector of the bar.

This is why the chain brake is an important safety feature of the chainsaw. If activated, it can stop the chain in a fraction of a second in the case of a kickback. The chain brake can be triggered in two ways on all Jonsered saws: either by the motion of the saw during kickback, or if the wrist of your left hand strikes the kickback guard.

2. Chain catcher

If the saw chain is not maintained properly it may jump off or break. The chain catcher is designed to protect the operator by stopping the chain from flying backwards.

3. Right hand guard

Designed to protect your fingers if the chain jumps off or breaks.

4. Throttle lock

Prevents accidental throttle operation. As an additional safety feature you must activate the throttle lock to operate the throttle.

5. Stop button

Conveniently positioned so you can stop the engine quickly.

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